Eye creams that actually work

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In a world where skincare has become as personalised as our morning coffee order, eye cream has found itself at the centre of a quiet debate. Some say it’s a must-have for delicate under-eye skin; others dismiss it as an unnecessary splurge. I’m an eye-cream enthusiast. As Dr Elizabeth Hawkes, consultant ophthalmologist and oculoplastic surgeon at Cadogan Clinic, explains, the skin around the eyes is around 40 per cent thinner than the rest of the face. Products will penetrate this area more easily but “actives found in face creams can easily irritate or dehydrate”, she says. 

To reduce fine lines, retinal is a form of vitamin A that is better tolerated on sensitive areas

An eye cream with bio-mimicking ingredients, such as Bioeffect’s EGF Power, will firm the skin without causing irritation. Its namesake epidermal growth factor (EGF) triggers fibroblasts – what I like to call nature’s stitches – to induce a wound-healing effect that increases collagen production. I am a big proponent of using eye cream at night, when the skin’s regenerative power is at its highest. Sisley’s new Supremÿa At Night Eye Cream smooths fine lines with a potent blend of actives including soy peptides. It’s used in the bespoke facial treatment I have created for Sisley facialists at Harrods (£250, until December). Another new formula I like is Estée Lauder’s Advanced Night Repair Eye Supercharged Gel-Creme, which uses a patented peptide and hyaluronic acid to hydrate, tackle dryness and minimise dark circles while you sleep. Elemis Daily Eye Boost is a multitasking saviour that targets tired, puffy eyes with a lightweight gel-cream. Formulated with ginseng and pomegranate, it energises and firms the delicate under-eye area – perfect for combating the effects of late nights and screen fatigue.

Powerful ingredients such as retinol can be tolerated in higher concentration on the face, neck and chest but may lead to severe irritation if applied near the eye. Noble Panacea’s Eye Lift Concentrate uses retinal – a form of vitamin A that is better tolerated on sensitive areas than retinol – to reduce expression lines. The individual active doses are perfect when you need an immediate lift. And U Beauty founder Tina Chen Craig developed its The Return Eye Concentrate when she learnt that her own under-eye bags and dark circles were caused by weakened blood vessels. Its patent-pending SIREN Capsule Technology delivers potent actives anywhere free radicals – unstable molecules that can cause damage to cells – accumulate. 

When applying eye cream, don’t just pat and move on. Warm it between your fingertips and glide outwards a few times, applying pressure with caterpillar-like movements from the inner corners towards the temples. Hug the inside sockets with your thumbs, pressing them for a few seconds – and feel the release.