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The Yamadera area of Yamagata is best known for the eponymous temple complex, but east of it lies another sanctuary visited by far less tourists. Deeper into the woods at the back of Senju-in temple, the Mine-no-ura or “Other Yamadera” area was once a sacred place where Buddhist saint Ennin practiced his asceticism in the 9th century.
The most notable part of Mine-no-ura is the Tarumizu Sanctuary ruins, a natural grotto in a honeycomb-patterned cliff wall with a lone torii arch standing inside. No doubt a spiritual site, the sanctuary was used for ascetic training up until the Taishō era (1912-1926) and continues to give off a mystical vibe to those who may feel it.
What’s left of the sanctuary now consists of the shrines to Inari-ōkami and Fudō-myō’ō (Acalanātha), as well as stupas and several rocky outcrops that were once subjects of worship. Further on, the trail leads to a scenic hill with more strange stones and traces of ancient Buddhist trainings.
Know Before You Go
The trail to the Tarumizu Sanctuary and beyond starts at the back of Senju-in temple, about 20 minutes way from Yamadera Station. Be careful when you cross the railroad to reach the temple as there is no crossing or warning signs, and note that there may be bears and wasps in the woods. The first sanctuary site can be reached in about 15 minutes from the starting point, but it may take an hour one-way to hike along the whole Mine-no-ura trail.