Meet the Young Chef of the Year finalists

On behalf of The Sydney Morning Herald Good Food Guide, we’re very pleased to present this year’s rising talent for our Young Chef of the Year Award, presented by Smeg. Founded in memory of chef Josephine Pignolet, the longstanding award is for a committed and skilled kitchen talent under 30.

This year’s finalists were selected from a field of more than 30 applicants across NSW and the ACT. (They could not be the owner or executive chef of a restaurant, and must be a permanent Australian resident.) Judged by a panel of industry leaders including Dan Hong, Daniel Puskas and Lauren Eldridge, the winner will be announced at the Good Food Guide Awards on November 11 at the Sydney Opera House.

Ahead of the gala awards night, we asked the five finalists for their hot tips, hidden gems and favourite late-night dinner destinations across Sydney and Canberra (because no one knows where to eat after 11pm better than a chef).

Luke Bourke

Rockpool Bar & Grill, Sydney

Graduate of the National Indigenous Culinary Institute. Advocate for First Nations ingredients. Mentor to Indigenous chefs. Rockpool Bar & Grill sous-chef. Luke Bourke has packed a lot in, and that’s without even mentioning stints at Est., Noma Australia and The Ledbury in London, which followed a tour of Ireland with twin chef-brother Sam to spotlight native ingredients.

Growing up on Dharug Country, Bourke dreams of returning to Western Sydney to open a restaurant with his brother and older sister Teagan (also a chef), employing First Nations cooks and building a menu grounded in place.

“Not just farm to table, but our backyard and culture to your plate,” he says. “Using native ingredients grown on our land, drawing on 60,000 years of culture to create a food journey that showcases Indigenous heritage in all its glory.”

Who makes your favourite bowl of noodles?

Andy Evans’ Beijing noodles with Blackmore wagyu always satisfies a craving. Usually eaten standing in the Spice Temple kitchen, over a chat with Andy and the team after a busy service. The noodles and that chat are a creature comfort.

Who makes the best sandwich?

I’m happy to call Good Ways Deli in Alexandria my local. The Deli Sandwich is my go-to with kangaroo mortadella, LP’s smoked ham and provolone cheese (and never say no when asked if you want to add chilli), all wrapped up in house-made ciabatta. With Good Ways’ rosella and lemon myrtle soda on the side, you can’t go wrong.

Which bar is your go-to for a great cocktail, or wine by the glass?

Bar Copains in Surry Hills. The wine list is ever-changing, with a by-the-glass selection rotating weekly and a whole wall of unlisted bottles to pick from. Curated from co-owners Nathan Sasi and Morgan McGlone’s personal cellars, there are plenty of “diamonds”, as they like to call them.

What’s the best dish you’ve eaten this year in Sydney?

The pizzelle at Icebergs Dining Room and Bar. A thin, crisp waffle complements rich, salty caviar and delicate cultured cream. Inspired by Maurice Terzini’s mother’s recipe, the Italian biscuit is beautifully presented alongside vintage caviar-dome silverware. The perfect start to a long lunch in the hands of chef Alex Prichard.

Sixpenny, Stanmore

Youn’s hospitality career began as a kitchen hand in 2013 at a small Japanese takeaway, and he joined three-hatted Sixpenny in 2021.

“Sixpenny is a small team of strong professionals who are passionate about what they do,” he says. “It was the style of food and the standard I had been dreaming of, and something that I want to do for the rest of my career.”

Earlier this year, Youn also registered his own artisan food brand, Nuriferments.

“In old Korean, ‘nuri’ means ‘the world’. My little brother Tony and I came up with the name. I am thrilled to see myself becoming an artisan supplier as well as a full-time chef, supplying artisanal fermented products to local organic stores, bottle shops, cafes and restaurants.”

Where do you go for a late-night meal after work?

If time allows, I would race to get a table at Milliore in Capitol Square in Haymarket. It’s the ultimate late-night Korean restaurant, offering an overwhelming amount of choices from fried dumplings, cold and hot noodles, and all types of stir-fries.

My favourites are the kimchi pancake and fish cake soup, and I love how it’s always jam-packed full of happy people. Make sure you pull yourself out of there before you have too much fun and soju.

What’s your number-one hidden gem in Sydney that doesn’t get enough love?

Igniis Bake & Roast in Potts Point. It’s a fairly new bakery to the game, run by a husband (master coffee maker) and wife (passionate croissant baker). They pump out some of the most amazing morning essentials, such as hazelnut pain Suisse.

What’s the most un-cheffy thing that you eat out, regularly?

A basket full of Korean fried chicken from Joy Korean Fried Chicken in Chippendale. Once you experience Joy’s fried chicken, you never go back to others. The portions are generous, with super-crisp skin that’s never greasy, and there’s a delicious range of sauces to choose from. I usually ask for the sweet-and-spicy option for lazy, day-off dinners.

Which bar is your go-to for a great cocktail, or wine by the glass?

Bar Sumi in Regent Place in the CBD. Chic, sexy and fun. You don’t have to stop the conversation to read the menu here. You simply offer a couple of clues about what you like to drink and staff will do the magic for you.

Ice cubes are hand-carved and your cocktails are kept chilled while you are not in the seat. It’s all about the little details, but the atmosphere is still light and entertaining.

What’s the best dish you’ve eaten this year in Sydney?

Tagliatelle with fermented shiitake mushrooms at Ante. Simply the best example of how a fermented element can elevate a dish. When this comes out, I’m not sharing.

Who makes your favourite bowl of noodles?

Dodee Paidang in Haymarket. It’s a huge menu, seemingly with a million different options to customise your bowl. My favourite has always been the khao soi – egg noodles in yellow chicken curry with lime and dried chilli.

Noora Heiska

Pilot, Canberra

Heiska joined two-hatted Pilot as a sous chef in 2023, after working at XO in Narrabundah for the previous six years. She recently hosted her own pop-up at Pilot’s sibling restaurant, Such and Such, and relished the opportunity to write a menu from scratch.

“With very little boundaries set, I went with modern Finnish food,” says Heiska. “It was a great opportunity to connect with the culture I grew up in, and a challenge to take that nostalgia and translate it into dishes and flavours delicious to guests.”

If she were to open her own restaurant, it would be “Finnish fine dining” within an Australian context.

“Bold, clean flavours created by embracing traditional cooking techniques such as smoking, curing and fermenting. There might be a dish like kangaroo with riberry, based on the Finnish combination of reindeer and lingonberries, but from the Australian wilderness.”

Who makes the best sandwich?

SoomSoom Kitchen, a food truck in Fyshwick’s Dairy Road precinct. The chicken sando is out-of-this-world delicious, but special mention also goes to the crispy shallot pancakes. I get mine with cheese, corn, pickles and chilli sauce. Divine.

What’s your number-one hidden gem that doesn’t get enough love?

Paranormal Wines in Campbell. So many cool wines and very tasty food. If only their opening hours were more friendly to people working in hospitality!

What forthcoming restaurant are you excited to check out when it opens?

So many exciting openings are coming up in Canberra, but the one I’m looking forward to the most is AK’s Diner opening in New Acton this month. It’s a small Malaysian hawker-style shop by AK Ramakrishna, my former boss at XO. He’s been laying low for the past year and I can’t wait to see him back in the game.

Where do you go for a group lunch or dinner with your team, either after work or on days off?

We tend to go for a beer at Edgar’s, right next door to Pilot. Or we might head upstairs into Wakefield’s Bar and Wine. The kitchen team does a great job with the food there, and I’m not just saying that because we’re neighbours.

Lakhan Bhounsle

Nomad, Surry Hills

Since joining Nomad in 2019, Bhounsle has come up the ranks from commis pastry chef to senior sous chef. He says that he has come to realise that success in the hospitality industry extends far beyond culinary skills, and aims to spend the next year learning more about the business acumen needed to thrive.

“I hope to lay the foundations for an establishment that embodies my passion for food and community,” says Bhounsle. “The venture would include an Indian snack bar in Sydney and a bakery in Bangalore, each reflecting the unique flavours and cultures of both locations while allowing me to give back to both communities.”

Where do you go for a late-night meal after work?

678 Korean BBQ or Milliore, both very close to work which helps when you’re herding a bunch of chefs. After a long day, it’s all about the simple pleasures, such as Milliore’s Korean fried chicken washed down with a few shots of soju.

Who makes the best sandwich?

If you’re on the hunt for a sandwich that’s more than just a snack, head straight to Kosta’s Takeaway in Rockdale or Rosebery and grab the tuna melt. It’s not just about the perfectly toasted bread or the tuna’s melty, savoury goodness, it’s also the sheer size of this beast. For me, this sandwich is a double shift – lunch and dinner. A meal-prep plan disguised as comfort food.

What’s your number-one hidden gem in Sydney that doesn’t get enough love?

Ocean Six Noodle and Dumpling in Rosebery. Absolute perfection for weeknight dine-in or takeout. My go-to order is pork and chive dumplings, sweet and sour crispy beef, and braised eggplant. But if I’m feeling adventurous, the spicy beef tripe in peanut chilli oil is where the fun really starts.

What’s the best dish you’ve eaten this year in Sydney?

No contest – it was the caramelised pork belly at Lucky Kwong, sadly now closed. Tender pork belly, bathed in a glossy, burgundy sauce, dotted with bursts of tangy Davidson’s plum and paired with the simplest bowl of jasmine rice. Every bite was a slow dance, and I’m still not over it!

Which bar is your go-to for a great cocktail, or wine by the glass?

P&V Paddington. The staff are absolute gems, always helping you pick the perfect glass (or bottle) depending on the mood. For me, it’s usually a glass of chablis to start, and then transition to a mystery bottle roulette. The courtyard has dangerously good vibes!