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The Bermuda short hails, unsurprisingly, from Bermuda, a concession to the Atlantic archipelago’s intense heat; in certain climates, the British Army conceded, a trouser is unforgivable. Yet its influence has long spread across the world. “In the 1970s, in New Zealand, men called them walk shorts, and they were a staple of formal officewear,” says professor of fashion design Andrew Groves, director of the Westminster Menswear Archive. “In California, Bermuda shorts are synonymous with surf culture.” Smart, relaxed and not overly revealing, these knee-hugging variants are beloved by grungey slackers and British royals: both King Charles, as Prince of Wales, and his grandson Prince George have been photographed in a pair, on a yacht and off to school respectively.
It’s the Bermuda’s versatility that makes it such a favourite with designers: clean and militaristic at Ami Paris or Emporio Armani, swishy borderline culottes at Fendi, alternately frilly and severe at Comme des Garçons Homme Plus and in printed denim at Louis Vuitton. That brand’s men’s creative director Pharrell Williams is a Bermuda recidivist: Groves notes his ahead-of-the-curve appearance at the 2014 Academy Awards, in a Lanvin tuxedo paired with Bermuda shorts. “This semi-formal approach to men’s tailoring has extended into his work at Louis Vuitton, integrating these shorts into luxury tailoring.”
For Nicola Neri, who styled HTSI’s shoot, a Bermuda never fails. “They tend to bring a smile to people when I wear them,” he says. “A cotton pair can easily make you look ready for a golf game in Florida, but Willy Chavarria makes amazing oversized cotton Bermudas that are super-cool.” He cites Prada, Comme and Dries Van Noten as classic references. As to how to wear them: “I tend to wear straight ones that don’t hug my figure too much. I feel free and very cool in them.”
“It’s a less obvious silhouette,” adds Martin Onufrowicz, features editor of Behind the Blinds and another strong shorts champion. “It’s an interesting midpoint between looking casual and put-together.” But Bermudas, for autumn? Really? “It’s a big yes from me,” says Onufrowicz. “Shoe-wise, I like to wear them with a loafer or a simple leather slide. With thick socks, you will barely feel the autumn breeze.”
Model, Bilal Bourhattas at Tomorrow is Another Day. Casting, Tiago Martins at Ben Grimes. Grooming, Yumi Nakada-Dingle using Davines, Boy de Chanel and No 1 de Chanel skincare. Photographer’s assistant, Emilio Garfath. Stylist’s assistants, Hayley Downes and Alvaro Merino De Mendoza. Grooming assistant, Erika Kimura. Production, Eightyseven Productions. Special thanks to Shannon Pajot